Costa Smeralda: from Porto Rotondo to Tavolara

We have already sung the praises of the Costa Smeralda's wonders in a previous article. We were focused on the sea and the lands we would encounter while sailing northwards, from Golfo Pevero to Corsica. In this episode we will travel southwards, touching on places very popular with elite tourism such as Porto Rotondo, beautiful beaches such as those in Golfo Aranci, and marine areas of unspoilt splendour such as those on the island of Tavolara.

Porto Rotondo, not only VIPs

Blazoned opposite neighbour of the modern marina of Portisco, Porto Rotondo is among the jewels of Gallura, sharing with Porto Cervo the preferences of national and foreign tourism. Considered one of the most à la page places in Sardinia and in Italy, Poltu Rutundu (in Gallura dialect) is a holiday destination for celebrities from high finance to show business, who choose it as their summer residence. Technically not belonging to the Costa Smeralda, but linked to it in common feeling, it takes its name from the structure of the port, with its rounded shape, built by Luigi and Nicolò Donà delle Rose in the late 1960s. Worldliness is not the only attraction. And next to lidos where you can enjoy VIP watching, such as the marvellous Spiaggia Ira, among the largest in Porto Rotondo, you will find others of equal beauty. The beach of Punta Nuraghe, for example, is located on one of the three peninsulas (the others being Punta Volpe and Punta Lada) into which the area is divided, surrounded by Mediterranean maquis and crystal clear seas. Also known as Spiaggia Contro Ira, Punta Nuraghe enjoys transparent waters that run through all shades of blue and offers splendid views of the Golfo di Cugnana. Beyond the Port, a few hundred metres to the east is the Spiaggia dei Sassi (Beach of the Stones), surrounded by hills and characterised by the small stones that mix with the sand, justifying its name. Among the most beautiful beaches are Shirley Bassey and Punta Asfodelo, as well as Marinella. About 800 metres long, the reference beach for Porto Rotondo is located between this and Golfo Aranci, is about 3 kilometres from that of Ira, and offers a beautiful view of the islands of Soffi and Mortorio.

Golfo Aranci, at a walking pace

There are no orange trees in this small seaside town at the foot of the Campo Figari promontory. The name is said to derive from a mistranslation of the Sardinian name of Golfu di li Ranci, that is, Gulf of the crabs, but never mind: the beauty of the sea and the surrounding vegetation itself abundantly compensate for the misunderstanding. Among the most popular features of this place for tourists is the possibility of reaching the city beaches on foot, since they are located a stone's throw from the centre. But first it is worth taking a walk among the low houses of the old fishing village and, just outside the town, taking a dip into the past by visiting the Pozzo Sacro Milis (Milis Sacred Well). It is an important archaeological site from the Nuragic period and represents a rare testimony of a Nuragic “well” temple, of which it is still possible to distinguish the steps leading to the water source. Turning to the natural beauties to visit nearby, one cannot miss a stop at Cala Moresca, Cala Greca and Cala del Sonno, on the other side of the peninsula. The small beach of Cala Sabina is also beautiful, very close to the railway station, while towards Arzachena we find the beaches of Capriccioli and Principe. Heading south, besides the crowded Spiaggia Bianca, we find a sequence of beaches, leading from Sos Aranzos, Cala Banana and Nodu Pianu to Pittulongu.

Tavolara, the island that is there

Lovers of diving and wild nature cannot miss the Island of Tavolara. Located opposite Porto San Paolo, it looks like a parallelepiped of limestone and granite about seven kilometres long and one kilometre wide. With the island of Molara and the Molarotto reef, it is part of the Protected Marine Area of Tavolara - Capo Coda Cavallo, including more than 15,000 hectares of sea and more than 40 km of coastline and founded in 1977 with the aim of preserving and maintaining marine life intact. With a small harbour and few residents, the island does not offer any accommodation, but does, however, offer the luxury of walking surrounded by unspoilt nature, sunbathing on picture-postcard beaches and, accompanied by a hiking guide, reaching the summit with its breathtaking views. For diving, the perfect place is Secca del Papa, while bays include Spiaggia di Porto Istana, Porto Taverna, Piscine di Molara, Cala Brandinchi and Spiaggia di San Teodoro. Anchoring in the opposite bay, perfectly positioned and sheltered from the north-easterly winds, you can enjoy a day trip and, in addition to sunbathing lying on the white sand of La Cinta, walk along the path that leads to the various coves in 20 minutes, in the middle of information boards on the island's history, fauna and flora.