Amalfi Coast, sailing northwards

The Amalfi Coast is a jewel of unquestionable beauty, but reaching it by sea certainly gives it an extra touch of magic. The first three stops we propose leaving from Salerno are the must-see pearls of Amalfi and Positano located next to a gem such as Cetara, less well known but no less deserving of a visit.

Cetara

Famous for its beaches, the small town of Cetara is a seaside village that seems suspended in time. Starting from the coast, the main beach is the Marina beach. Characterised by pastel-coloured houses, this former fishermen's meeting place is one of the few beaches that can also be reached by land. Most of the other beaches can be reached by sea, which makes a sailing holiday even more special. Along the west coast, for example, we find the beach of Collata. With a pebble-covered shoreline, it lies in a cove and is therefore well sheltered from the winds. Again on the west coast, immediately afterwards we find a small beach surrounded by rocks overlooking the sea: it is the lovers' beach.

To the east of the town we find the Lannio beach, whose name is said to derive from the lament (lannio, in fact) of the monks who were slaughtered here by the Saracens and whose laments are still said to be heard from time to time. Mostly sandy, it has some pleasant flat rocks. The beach of Tuoro Vecchio, 50 metres from Lannio, is also sandy. It can be reached by land only from the hotel that has been granted the concession by the maritime state property; it is also easy to reach by boat and is referred to as one of the most beautiful views in the whole area. Finally, it is worth stopping at the Campana beach, with a view of small sea stacks and only accessible by sea

Moving from the beaches to the village, there is no shortage of surprises. Among the memories of a past that has strongly imprinted its traces on the territory is the Torre Vicereale. Clearly visible even from the sea, this monument was built in the Angevin period with the functions of a lookout and first defence. After the landing of the Turks in 1534, the building became part of a system of fortifications consisting of about 400 towers that covered much of the southern Italian coastline. Restored several times over the centuries, it underwent a double-height elevation in the Aragonese period with the construction of two more storeys at the end of the 19th century. Reopened to the public in 2011, it now houses a Civic Museum. Other places where to stop between a dip and a snack with typical products (maybe flavoured with the famous “colatura di alici” (anchovy sauce) of the local tradition) include the churches of San Francesco d'Assisi, Santa Maria di Costantinopoli and San Pietro Apostolo.

Amalfi

The other essential stop along the coast is, of course, the town that gave it its name: Amalfi. An ancient maritime republic, once one of the Mediterranean's most important ports for trade with the East, this town with its pastel-coloured houses clinging to steep slopes seems to owe its urban planning to oriental influence, which can also be identified in the labyrinths of alleys and stairways, dotted with colourful patches of flowers and lemon trees. Do not miss St Andrew’s Cathedral. Built in the Arab-Norman style and later restored with Gothic and Baroque elements, it is a complex dating back to the 9th century that includes the adjoining Basilica of the Crucifix, the Crypt of St Andrew, which houses the remains of the saint, and the famous Cloister of Paradise.

As concerns beaches, the main one is the Spiaggia Grande or Marina beach, near the city centre. Consisting of sand mixed with pebbles, it is a lively meeting place thanks to the proximity of restaurants and clubs that are very popular in the evenings. If you are looking for a little more peace, you will also find it here in the beaches that can only be reached by sea or, like in the case of Duoglio beach, which is particularly popular for water sports, after climbing the 400 steps of a panoramic staircase. Not far away and accessible only by boat is the more reserved and quiet Santa Croce beach, known for its crystal-clear sea. It is not very big, nevertheless it is very well equipped and also has some excellent restaurants.

Positano

The third major destination along the Amalfi Coast is Positano. Developing mostly vertically on a cliff overlooking the sea, its urban structure is thought to date back to the 13th century, with narrow streets, watchtowers and fortifications. Visiting it means getting lost in search of restaurants, shops and galleries in the alleys of its 12 districts, one for each of its churches. Among these, we cannot miss the church of Santa Maria dell'Assunta, which with its dome covered in yellow and green majolica tiles is considered one of the symbols of the city.

Among the beaches, the main one is Marina Grande or Spiaggia Grande, the hub of local social life and a meeting place for tourists. The beach Via Laurito, which derives its name from the numerous laurel plants, is rather crowded since it is located in a small cove. If we can and want to escape from the crowd, we can reach La Fornillo, characterised by a sand of small pebbles and accessible through a small road from Positano's pier at the end of Marina Grande. Finally, the Beach Arienzo, which can only be reached from the land after climbing 300 steps...